Unwritten Law – Hanging at the chains
Brisk November morning, I picked KC up at his apartment and we made the drive out to Blowing Rock, NC to climb at the Dump. Word was that this was good winter crag that gets southern sun, and gasp, it may actually have some bolted sport routes!
We met Joe, his girl (Kimberly), Sean and Drew at the crag too. I was quite surprised that we would be pretty much the only ones there the entire day. The spot is right off the road and boast a tedious 2 minute hike from your car door.
We went down to the slab wall, and got on some balancey movement fest up some 7s and 8s. It was fun seeing KC out of his bouldering environment. By that time most of the crew had moved over to the main goal near the “big” rock out cropping. We finished up on some hard slab with high steps and foot work, again help KC break his bouldering mindset and teach him how to clean a sport climb.
We moved over to the other area, the guys had already hung the draws on Unwritten Law, which was the climb to do when you go to the Dump. Drew and Sean had worked out all the beta and I watch patiently and slow gleaning everything from what they were doing.
- Spot the start crimps and maybe mono digit pocket – check
- Hit the jug. – check
- Kneebar/sit down rest – check
- Crossover hand crimps – check-ish?
- Get to jugs – under roof – check
- Good left side pull, small ticked feet, shitty crimp (use the thumb) – ahh maybe?
- Then Jump for the jug rail at the anchors – Yeah, right.
After a mental battle in my head, I went for it. With some fumble along the way, wrong clipping stance here, awkward knee bar/butt scum, it luckily all came together when I jump for the anchor jug. I kind don’t remember being the air, just my right hand smacking and hitting the edge, and then sticking.
It was a really cool climbing and understood why people have to go for it.
We finished up the day, on some gnarly short boulder 10s, which fit KC’s style perfectly.
Next time, I have to work on the extension of Unwritten Law, called Ride the Lightning.
Here is a video that Joe put together of the climb, I climbed it a second time and got some film, just because it was so good.
