The Maiden
In a rush for Ben and I to tick off as many of our early climbing goals in Colorado, I drove up to Boulder again to try a summit attempt of the Maiden, before a raptor closure to effect for the flatirons.
In early morning at daybreak, we left from the trailhead near eldorado canyon and began the 1-2 hr hike to the base ofthe formation. As we got closer to the formation, it really began to take shape how thin and steep this rock fin is. The one side appeared to be defying gravity as much as it was leaning and overhanging.
We would be climbing the northface route in January. This was possibly very foolish, however it was really warm and calm the previous day and reports said it would hold out for Sat. However was we approached the start of the North West Route, (with was on the the top of the ridge line to the west). We were blasted by consistance 30-40 mph gusts. Ben and I looked at each other and tried to figure out what to do. We took a break grabbed some pictures and waited to see if we would get a break from the daybreak gusts.
Around 9AM with gust still hollowing, we decided to atleast try the 1st traversing ridge pitch. This was mostly odd downclimbing on ropes across the western rib. The wind was gusting so hard, that communication with each other was impossible, we had to use instinct to get each other across.
When we reached the notch (end of the 1st pitch), things seem ok because we didn’t get blown off and were in the sun which was protected by wall of rock and underneath the massive overhang. Here we decided to just go for it as we were feeling good. I led the 2nd “supposed crux pitch”. I had to do it twice because I climbed most of it, without realizing I didn’t take the rack.
The 2nd belay spot was next to pine tree on the side of the rock, in the shade with a slight breeze. Ben took the 3rd pitch traversing even more to the east along the north face wall. Here is where things go hairy. Ben followed a line contain a couple old pins and bongs and end up doing a scary “r/x” traverse” about 30 ft above the correct line. It took him some time to get it through it, all of this was outside my sight while belaying. Here I began to get frozen while belaying. Eventually he made it, start to take in rope and I climbed the same path. It was quite gnarly and there is a video from Ben’s helmet cam where you can hear lots of worrisome noise coming from us.
The rest of the climb was easy and we got to do the awesome full 60 meter rappel from the Overhanging Summit. Ben won the draw to get his picture on the rappel.
