Approach up to to Sauratown for Climbing
I missed all the fun and festivities last when the CCC (Carolina Climbing Coalition) got access restore to the Sauratown Cliffs. This year it was made a point to get out there before things would close down. Also, if you somehow wandered to this post for Sauratown Beta (through google or other devilish search engineering methods), give the CCC a few bucks for getting access restored.
Anyways, it is opened from Jan 1st to the End of February this year for climbing access. The approach is a solid one, which helps limits some of the unworthy crowds. A solid 1000ft gain from the parking lot to the base of Shock the Monkey will leave you warm and ready to climb. So far my best time from car to crag (with filling out the necessary paperwork) is 27 minutes.
1-17-2015: 1st exploratory trip, I went up there with Alexis and her mom and dad. It took a while to get our bearing but we eventually decipher the approach and wandered our way up the hill. We arrived at the base and saw a good bit of people head right when the trail met the cliffs, so all the moderates were being conga-lined on so we couldn’t head that way. Luckily, I haul my trad rack everywhere and allows us to get on routes that others avoid.
So looking at the top from 1998, we climbed what I thought was “Whiskey Sour”, but it really wasn’t. I climb the flat face, through a funky edges, blocky crack, and then jugs to the top. After climbing, and setting an anchor (since there was no rings or slings), an elder local, said it climbs more to the left on the arête and uses the anchors on “Shock the monkey”. So either we climb a route that hasn’t seen traffic in 20-30 years and is unknown, or got a FA of a new trad line.
Later we when over to Frank’s World and finally clip bolts. This was good route at the far left , even Alexis gave it a shot. By then, it was getting late and there was a lot of people to fight, so I did a quick lap on “Old Man’s Sugar Daddy.” Bring the stick clip on that one.
Old Man’s Sugar Daddy – 10+ (sport) – Stick Clip first bolt, make hardest move off the deck then follow bolts to the Top. Short.
Frank’s World – 10 (sport) – Fun edge pulling at the end of the cliff line. This take it to about halfway up the cliff pulling on crimps. Took a blue tcu between bolt ?, not really needed though.
Chapel Hill Arete -10 (Sport) – Weirdness and Rests all over the place on this one. Dance out the overhangs. To the 3rd Bolt.
Kish Dish – 8 Classic because of how it climbs, consistent 5.8 edges and jugs when you want them. use .75 to take the bit out before the 1st bolt
Big Erector – 9+ looks improbable from the ground, but everything is there. Up until the Bulge. Pulled up and over to the crack, and fight barndooring.
Leisure Time – 10+ – Some finesse is need to get established, then make you way to the 1st roof, go right for harder moves and big throw up. Edges and dancing to the top. Yellow Tcu before the 1st bolt
1/31/2015: It was supposed to be a rest for me this weekend, but the weather was too nice to pass up the opportunity to get outside again. John actually woke up and arrive on time to the house. As payback, I took my time making coffee, while he had to entertain the new cat. We got to the parking lot around 9:45 and did the non-stop approach up the now worn in trail. It was cold morning and cliff had some nice surprises.
We setup base at “Shock the Monkey”, and soon we realize the mass of ice fall that would plague us for the next 40 mins. Dodging the falling ice blocks and hearing the howling monkey’s (pigeons) which live in the left crack system, it gave a really nice alpine-esk feeling. With numb fingers and thought provoking moves at the very high 1st bolt, we made quick work of the Monkey. There was already a line forming behind us.
We moved down to the far right side of the cliff, and got on “Skin toy”, which was a bit crimpier than I wanted to experience this weekend. After a few moves, my finger had warmed up on the sun facing wall and I floated through the crimps. With an open slot beside us, I ticked “Beware” as well.
By this time, I had made friends with people John knew, Bennett and Eric. We all head down for something that could get on and work the moves. The thin was called Amazing Joe, and vertical pumpy technical fest near the gash of death. I was just wanting to hang out, but John had to open his mouth that I should hang the draws. I am grateful now that he did, but then I wasn’t too stoked.
Through crimps I made it up to the big roof and put on a long draw. I then work my way higher and clip the 3rd draw and got suckered out right. Moving right at the 3 bolt is way wrong, so I had to reverse all the roof moves to come down to the 2nd bolt. Here I rested on some nice rails, to get as much back as I could. Moving through the roof again I found ear’s and edges to grab. Once established above the bolt, I saw the next clip and the hold that will forever be known to me as the “stick of butter”. Pasting my right foot way out on the butter, I crimped hard with my left hand on a pretty shitty dish crimp. Here I made one of those “oh god, if I blow this clip it’s going to be bad, I am so stretch out, why is this bolt so far away, breath, oh man,” clips. After the clip, my brain melted away, and I went on autopilot. I can’t remember any specific moves after that, but I didn’t find any anchor for this climb on its own, so I work up and right of the last bolt to the anchor of “I’ll be danned”, giving it a nice run out on moderate terrain. So much for a chill day of just hanging out at the crag.
Shock the monkey – 10+ – Take a small cam / nut if you want to protect before the 1st high bolt. Hardest moves are figuring out and getting to the 2nd bolt. Great rests and position above the 2nd bolt. Manage the pump and find the good edges. A+ climb.
Skin Toy – 11 – Crimping skills needed on this thing. Find the Positive edges and get through the blank zone. Jugs above 2nd bolt. Then choose your path of least resistance to the top.
Beware – 10 – some physical Moves through a low roof till you can get establish above. Watch the water streak, and move out left of it. 2nd Crux up high, finding the best sloping holds and clipping the chains.
Amazing Joe – 12 – The line straight up the Wall and through a roof and bulges. Find hidden edges up to the 2nd bolt below the roof, use a long draw. Use big rest out left. Find the ears and edge to clip the 3rd, then head left of the bolt line. Find “the butterstick” foot rest and use as best you can. Then edges and high steps up, and head over to the Dan Anchors. (Topo included)
