Rocktober
The end October came around and it is the best time of year to get out and climb some rocks. I was able to coordinate my week of climbing to tag along with some friends from Colorado who also happened to be doing a climbing trip across America for the fall.
The initial plan was to climb up and around the New River Gorge for a about 4 days and then check out the Red River gorge for the last couple days. Since I was already up at the ACC for Bridge Day, I just move my tent down to a closer camp spot by Ange, Eben, and new friend Zach. The Blazer made moving the tent nice and easy in one fell swoop.
The day had perfect temps and we head to the Endless Wall to climb some of the best moderate trad routes in the gorge. I had to get my head into the trad game right away to be able hang with Ange, Eben and Zach. Warm-up was on “Supercrack (5.9+)” it was nice and long with the business of handjams at the very end. This was follow by a offwidth “Momma’s Squeeze Box”. After getting into the trad mind, we ticked off some more classics (all 10bs but some felt harder) “Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam (hard #3 crack start, I got super pumped)”, “Burning Calves (great finger locks)”, and “Rod Sterling Crack (Rope eater and sneaky)”. After a solid day, it felt like it was going to be a great week at the New to push hard into Trad, but WV had other plans.
The next morning, freezing rain descended on to the region and we had to figure out a new plan of actions. After much deliberation (coffee and burritos) at the cathedral coffee shop in Fayetteville, we decided south was the only option to allow us to continue to climb. Everything to the west and north was getting soaked. So we made the 2hr drive to Moore’s Wall.
We camped at hanging rock state park and found out about the weird NC Park Laws require they lock you into the park after 6pm. Also, while camping at the park we had to deal with packs of raccoons that stalk around your site. I had to crawl out and do battle with a massive beast of a coon. I woke to the sound of NGAWR NARW, outside the tent saw this giant puff and beaded eyes. Without contacts, I blindly ran around the campground in my underwear chasing the beast out with a spoon. The next night Eben lost his shoes during battle with them.
As far as climbing went at Moore’s Wall, it was cold. We all froze solid From here, everyone parted ways, Eben and Ange were winding down their trip and driving back to CO and Zach was to meet some family on the east coast. I had a couple day’s left and made the long drive to Kentucky’s Red River Gorge. This was my first time here and I arrived solo hoping to meet up with others at Miguel’s Pizza. Miguel’s is a experience in its own right. A dirt bag climber Mecca for years, it has its own mystique. I slept in a Blazer each night so I didn’t have to worry about the frost or the dampness, or partying climbers. In the morning, I drove to the Left Flank Wall and met some people in the parking lot and ended up climbing with them. They were Surprisingly the next day, I was able to meet up with Jeff (former CO person now living in TN), to climb with his friends at the Chocolate Factory. I don’t think I’ve ever climbed pumpier 5.10s there. There also was this awesome route called snoozeberries were you climb half way and get this amazing lay down hueco rest. Jeff and His friends left at the end of the day, being Sunday and all. So they headed home and I made my way to new campground Land of Arches to meet up with Little Lauren and her friend Jeremy. This place was nice and chill compared to Miguel’s, and we met and shared some cigars with 2 dude on a cross country motorcycle trip. They were pretty nuts. In the morning, evil damp fog rolled in and saturated the entire region. We tried to climb at the solarium and it was soaked. We still climbed several classics, but they felt less than stellar. Air Ride Equipped was especially heinous, it felt like slimy toothpaste from the years of wet chalk and human grease. It was very desperate 11a. After all the climbing and the future forecast of more bad weather, I headed back to NC, through the wilds and rough country of KY. There are some rough town in KY.
Canadians from Quebec, and a guy from Seattle. Being a tag along, I just went where they wanted to go, and they immediately hop on a hard short bouldery route, (I wasn’t too stoke for this to be the 1st route). They wanted to work “Infectious” (12c). They had trouble and couldn’t hang the draws, so I eventually muster psyche and tried. I was able to hang all the draws, almost onsight it too, but my fingers got to cold once I got past the Pocket crux and the rail crux. The Canadians were done after this and left, so Steven (Seattle) and I went and tried a ultra classic “too many puppies” (12a). This thing was tough. I hung the draws and it almost felt impossible, especially the desperate last move. Steven got up next, and had the issue working out the beta, the top was going to be tough. After stretching and regaining psyche, I was able to push through and hold on through the route. The end move is a desperate standing up dyno move where you have to jump palm press above your head on to a stalactite. I’ll probably end remember this move forever. I never scream while climbing, but this move made me scream at the top of my lungs when I stuck it. Exhausted that night. I retreated to the blazer, got a pizza and drank “Ale-8-1” in celebration.
