In late April, Joe and I made a beta bid for the a free ascent on the Glass Menagerie at Looking Glass Rock. This would be a adventure on a real rock climb up the shear granite face of the north side.
Discussion turn serious during the Tuckfest climbing as Joe and I agree to give it a shot. 1 week later at 7AM Joe was sitting on the front porch stoop ready to throw all the gear in to the xterra. We got there late in the morning, just as the sun was high in the sky The hiking in was a bit of a slog in the heat and humidity, but humping in the loads and the portaledge is never really enjoyable. As we got to the base, shadows had just started to fall on the line. We would be climbing in the shade the rest of the day.
After some logistical work, I tied in and set off up the 1st pitch. Fun 11c climbing through improbable edges got me to the rotten dorite banded and anchors. (Gear beta: purple TCU, 75 camalot, draws, yellow tcu).
Joe brought up the heavy pack, lead through the chossy p2 traverse. Rock was pretty questionable, but easy climbing enough. Then we were sitting at the base of the open book pitch. We hauled up a bosun chair, and stick clip to figure out the beta on this pitch. Joe hung all the draws and gear, with a full rack with was a bear. I got to try the pitch and its right in your face off the belay. I figured out some beta to get through the lower crux, and made the pull through the 1st roof. From here you are just edging and crimping for the next 50ft, past old spinny bolts. When you finally get to a jug, you fill the glory. I came down to the belay again, and Joe gave it a honest shot, sent the whole line cleanly.
At the top, Joe chuck the end of the rope down to me and we haul gear and chair to the P4 Belay. Giving the pitch another try on top rope while cleaning and with the tag line, I felt completely worked. Fingers were peeling, shoes were rolling off edges, everything just felt terrible this time. When I reached, they belay I was just felt completely slimey. (Gear Beta, small nuts, Green Alien, #1 camalot, draws.)
Then came P4 “11a”, This pitch kicked my butt. I don’t know if i destoryed from the other climbing, but this thing gave me a fit. I was thrutching, chimney, smedging, rattling, cursing all through this 40ft pitch. It felt much hard than anything else before it. Also, I had a near heart attack at the mantel. (Gear Beta, #1 and smaller, steel resolve, therapist).
At the P5 belay we hauled up the portaledge, and sleep gear. We setup camp and had a nice picnic as we watch the cloud and fogs whip around the pisagh forest. Joe broken out the box wine and opened up the small bottle of whiskey. We chill and hung out, while just taking in the sites and peregrines. There was very brief down pour, while climbing the 4th pitch, but we managed to stay dry. The water run off from the top of the climb missed us for the most part, but the next pitch was soaked.
At dark we pulled out the sleeping bags tucked in for a good nights sleeps. Joe was gracious enough to give me the outside spot. We both immediate passed out. But then the rains came back. Around 10:30, I woke to slight drips on the canvas. It had started to sprinkle and run off from the top was getting lower. I rolled over and napped again hoping it would stop. Then I was awoken again by drips hitting my face. I felt my pillow and it was soaked, the water had also pooled up under my back. I tried to create a rain fly with my coat, but it just made the Chinese water torture worse. I woke up Joe, and we groggily agreed at around 11:00PM we had to call it.
Then we began the work of breaking down the ledge, lowering all the gear in the dark to ground. Luckily we were only 1 rap from the base, so this went pretty easily and quickly. Working in team competent team, made the retreat relatively enjoyable. No babysitting each other was required. We hiked out in the mist to opening skys and made it back to the car around 12:30. We changed and made the drive back to Charlotte to sleep in comfortable beds. My head hit the pillow around 4AM.
Mini-Big Adventure and 1st porta-ledge nap
