On a nice Sunday, we decided to enjoy the sunshine and dryness and go to the hidden wall at Crowders. This would let me cross some more routes off my ever growing need to do list.
John Lee joined Alexis and I for the hike and climb. We lucked out and were able to grab the last 2 parking lot spots at the main Crowders visitor center parking lot. During the quick hike back to the wall, we passed many Sunday hikers, stroller, fast walkers. However, as soon as we hit the climbers trail we were alone.
Upon racking up, Alex B and Barnette showed up as well to enjoy the day of good outside weather. John and I warmed up on 2 climbs on the right side of the cliff. 1st was some 10 mishmash link up, and a 11ish route with sharpness. Both fullfilled the need to get my headspace right and my blood pumping.
It took little convincing but John needed to cross Slabster of his list. So I hung the draws for him and then he gave it a good burn. During this burn, he refined some of his beta moves and rested up for a full go. Meanwhile, while he rested, I crossed off the Stark Whining, which is a good route that you can take to the top of the cliff. You have to negotiate some friable rock in the middle, but it is a good thing to get after.
Now it was John’s turn to send his multi-year project. The rock was starting to grease up but he stuck every opening move, ignoring the hands jam and just doing what he wanted. He reached the crux, ignored the 2 finger pocket, and stuck the crimp above the headwall. Finally he was able to do this move and reset his feet properly, which allowed him to successfully stick the next under cling. Boom, his project was now complete.
Feeling energized with his ascent, I looked for my next route. After glancing at it constantly, I decided to try Dixie Fury. Stickclipping the 1st bolt involved some sketchiness in itself, but I was happy to have it. Immediately upon setting off from the ground, I was able to tell that this had not been done in quite some time. While I was pinching up the small corner below the crack, friction was barely existent as this is where all the water seepage comes down through. I found some tiny edges for my feet and was able to reach up into in the looming darkness and find a good ledge. The only problem was that this ledge was covered in sand and mud. I shifted feet and hands while wiping and chalking the ledge. Finally it was sticky enough to allow me to pull myself up in to the cave crack. Wedging my body I was able to get a hands-free rest, and recover from my cleaning. As I waited, I could only see blackness infront of me. Half my body was now stuck up on the hole blocking the light. After recovering, I backtracked a bit to check out the crack and place a cam for the next moves. Getting a small .75 and #2 I was able to feel good about going for it. But 1st I return to my new home in “the cave”. While resting in the sensory deprivation hole, I tried to visualized my moves out the roof, sticking handjams, finding feet, and pulling.
Kinda ready, I went for it.
From what I remember here is the play-by-play conversation I had with my brain:
“Okay ready go, oh good there is a hand jam! Yes”
“Crap, I went thumbs downs, I can’t move passed it, I need to reverse and go thumb up.”
“Ok there, good. I need feet asap. Where? Okay there.”
“Okay now what. Jam again, okay, Pull up, get feet! Those may work?”
“Crack jamming is no longer an option. Humm, I am out there above some gear. “
“Don’t waste energy, the rock is crappy, just go. “
“Ow that’s sharp, hold it don’t fall. “
“Are my knees bleeding, Yep my knee are bleeding. “
“Oh I’m out the headwall and around, Awesome!, “
“Welp ,no spots for gear, that sucks, probably ground fall from here if I blow it.”
“Ahh a nice ledge, that is it!”
“OH a bolt!, hooray. Oh hands a free rest? I just need to jam shoulder in this flake and face outwards.”
It was a dirty battled, but it was worth it. I knew only one other person to do it(let alone try it), which sort of spurred me on to it. Hopefully this will push others to get on it too. It’s a good combination of “type 1” and “type 2” fun.
The day was finished after that. I was bloody, happy and a couple more ticks had been had.
