Wrapping up the Duck
Plans came together while drinking beer and eating pasties at the Greek Festival in Charlotte. With sugar, pulsing through our veins and complete disregard for the forecast for tomorrow, plans were solidified for Alpine-esk departure from Charlotte to go climb Dopey Duck at Shortoff Mountain.
5:30am: John lee arrived at the house and picked me up with my box of climbing gear.
6:30am: Arrive at Starbucks Gastonia, to pick up newly met Jesse, who would be trip photographer.
8:30ish: Arrive at Trailhead after Chickfila stop.
Slog up the trail started out with a nice surprise rattlesnake. A baby rattler had crawled into the middle of the trail to try and suck up some sunrays. I scooped it up with a stick and placed it way off the trail. Hiking was quick but strenuous. The morning fog helped to cut down on the heat, but the humidity was like swimming pool. We reached cloud level and were treated to some cool views and sun rays cutting through the valley. With skies still looking good and no threat of rain, we stopped at several outlooks to take some pictures and enjoy the scenery.
9:30ish: We reach the descent gulley.
Jesse would hang out on the rim and photograph the climb. Neither John or I had been to this area, so we took things as they came. Halfway down the wet gulley we found a rap station and used it. It probably didn’t save any time, but we now know where it goes.
10ish: We are deposited near the left start.
“Toxic shock” would be our start, and John won rock paper scissors. He got the first lead and setup of the belay mid-wall. I followed and broke off a hold, falling about 10 feet, then scrambled to the belay to give John the pack and take the next pitch.
??: Left the belay and had no clue where to go.
I attempted twice to go straight up, but they were not 5.9 moves, so I would down climb and try something else. The trick ended up being to go far right into the dihedral and then traverse back left above the bad rock band. With good exposure, I held it together and placed gear when I could. Some horizontals were pretty poor, so I had to just keep moving along chanting the Mantra of “when in doubt, run it out.” In this case it worked out well as there would eventually be better holds I could rest on. I ended my pitch above the 2nd roof, mainly for John to get some photo-ops and not because of rope drag or lack of gear.
??: John took off on the 3rd pitch.
He cheesed it up for some sweet photos of his styling moves. Meanwhile, I practiced my exposure and hanging belay comfortably. We also used Jesse as a proxy for communication (mostly just for fun).
12:00ish: Arrive at the top scramble and met back up with Jesse.
The thunderheads were just starting to form at this time. Old Colorado alpine knowledge and gut feelings were right, it was time to get off the mountain.
12:30: We were back on our way to Charlotte just as the storms opened up behind us.
