Super-Fun-Awesome-Pod-Climbing
Finally the weather in Colorado turned in the right direction for the climbing season. This weekend in April, a bunch of fun dudes got together to climb the granite walls of clear creek. It was less about being hardmen, than it was about having a blast on rock.
Saturday, I left the Springs and made my way to the walls of clear creek. I met Ben, Bruce, and new friend Brandon at the High Wire Crag. They got there earlier to make sure the good moderate lines were ours. (This turned out to be clutch because the area became a zoo later.) As I got to the base above the road and river, Ben had threw up a 5.7 with a unprotected opening roof move (he kept saying his nut fell out). After we all ran laps on it, Brandon and myself put 2 5.9s up right beside one another. Mine was slabby pocket face, his was roof crack. With these two routes put up, everyone was able to top rope the fun routes. There was super fun 10a was on the same wall as the slab route that had nice vertical juggy moves and beside the crack was 11c roof route.
At this time, Barnoff arrived looking completely dead. Apparently he had food poisoning but still made it out. We made him the honorary photographer and seem to be pleased. After messing around, we packed up and headed to the next area, Creekside.
At Creekside, we had the choice of a 4-5 pitch 5.7/5.8 or do some single pitch route in a cool setting. The multi-pitch route was going to be cluster, because there with 4 parties already on route. So we opt’ed for the fun POD routes. The POD is a climbing area that is only accessible via a high Tyrolean traverse across the river into a scoop of rock that is missing from the wall. This was half the fun, as we all had to get into this pod with all our climbing gear.
From the pod we picked 2 routes, they went straight up at 5.9+ and 5.8. Both were full value vertical pitches at 35 meters. They were some of the most fun routes I’ve done. Ben put up the 5.8 first as I photographed from the static line above the river. Brandon then put up the 5.9. The 5.9 had some interesting crossovers and large solid roof pull, with just the right amount of headiness being 40 meters above the river. Brandon convinced me to pull the rope and lead it after him. It was good choice.
After super-fun-awesome-pod-time, we went to the canal zone (another zoo) and put up some cruisers. Ben put up a super long pitch with 20 bolts, and I burned out on a 5.8.
All of us were thoroughly tired, but feasted in Golden on a Pizza Buffet. The damage count went as follows:
- Ben- 8 pieces
- Nevko – 7 piece and salad
- Bruce – 6 pieces and salad
- Barnoff – 5 pieces and salad
- Brandon – 4 pieces
The next day, just Ben, Barnoff and I went up to do some easy stuff on Der Zerkle in the flatiron. All of us were sore from yesterday. Barnoff ended up drinking all our water and Ben and I suffered dehydration, he’s a fricken camel. The climbs we did we 5.7, 5.8/9, 5.10.
I finally got to wear my super-lyrca-tie-dye pants and it gave me awesome powers. Also, I was complement many times on my style, both in fashion and climbing technique.
Key takeaways from this climbing weekend:
- Never burn your foot, or else you won’t hear the end of it (even though you are very photogenic).
- Barnoff will drink all your water
- Ben tries to kill belayers and Fly fisherman by throwing carabiner from 35 meters.
- Brandon needs a short sling for traverses
- Bruce doesn’t trust shoes being thrown across a creek, and has trouble carrying rope bags.
- Lycra improves your abilities by at least 2 grades (don’t listen to the haters).
I will drink all of the water. Every time. But this criticism coming from 3-gallon per 14’ner man!?
Hey, a 14er is different and has the opportunity to refill your bottles.