Boulder: Trad Climbing Seal Rock and Devil’s Thumb

Flatirons of Boulder

The Flatirons of Boulder beckoned me again this August. Ben had planned out a climb of another one of the five most recognized flatirons in Boulder. There was also talk about trying another climb, but we wouldn’t know until the day of the climb. The task ahead for the weekend would be 4-5 pitches on the Seal, and cracky 5.8 high on the ridge.

I got up to Boulder Friday night, and Ben and I compared and divvied up gear. We went over a couple different knots, and rope techniques to make sure we were fresh. We decided tomorrow we would hike up in the middle flatiron and attack Seal Rock first thing. The one thing we needed to make sure of is that if you climbing Seal rock you need 2 – 60 meter ropes in order to get down from the top of the rock.

Early in the morning on Saturday, we made our way to the Weather Institute raging on techno, espresso, and “Go Fast” energy drinks. After good 40 min hike, we made it to the base of the Seal. The bottom of Seal was pretty easy and straight forward, so we made a game-day decision and decided to try simul-climbing the first 2 pitches. This involved Ben climbing first, attached to the rope, placing gear(protection) as he goes.  Then after he was 30 meters out I would start climbing then as well, removing the gear as I reached it. So basically, we both are actively climbing at the same time, with running protection between us. Also, I would like to note, being a gear sherpa (donkey), works you pretty good.  I was no longer just trying to climbing, but trying haul myself up the cliff.

Ben had fun placing cams and slings and became extremely fond of wrapping trees. One of which was my crux with the pack on, as I had to climb under it. We reached the shoulder of the Seal pretty easily, but I was tired from hauling the gear. I happily gave Ben the pack – making him my mule, and I took lead. The climb from the shoulder the to head was very fun and classic. Lots of lie-backs and under-clings made it very fluid. I reached bottom of the head and set up anchor in an old wedge piece of angle iron and Ben climbed up after me. Ben lead the last route the route having the fun of feeling some exposure and solid pro placement. When we got to the top, we had great views of the other flatirons and the town of Boulder.

From here we had to tie two 60 meter ropes together to be able to reach the ground. It ended up being 165ft of straight rope rappel. Ben and I decided to use double fisherman knots to tie the two ropes together instead of the EDK (Euro Death Knot). The rappel down takes you directly in-front of a unreal 5.13a A0 called “Sea of Joy”.

From here we hiked across the way to climb “Der Freischutz.” I am pretty sure we didn’t take any set route to the top, but Ben lead some scary unprotected shelfs and ridges. Until you are in a sketchy situation where you are high above protection and required to make a delicate move, you will never fully understand the joy of having the chance to place pro. We got to the top and down-climbed through a class 4 route, and a small rock cave.

The next day, we decided to assault the Devils Thumb. This required a 2-3 hour hike back up into Shadow canyon below the Maiden and Matron Rock formations. These are some the most impressive overhangs in the range. I donned my best attire (dayglo short shorts). Along the way we received many stares and passed both happy and unhappy families. We reached the south-side of the of the cliff and were impressed by the big overhanging rock. As we scrambled up the skree field large, large boulders gave way to smaller, which gave way to looser, which gave way very temperamental rock. We got the bottom of the thumb and had to rope up for a sketchy move around a cliff edge. Ben got stuck in a tree and it was quite funny.

As we made it to the start of the climb, the nerves started. We tried to find the “steel rod” we were supposed to rappel from. It looked sketchy. Also there were two routes, 5.7 and 5.8. The 5.7 looked really sketchy and exposed so we opted for the 5.8 called “Toponas”. (The thumb also has 5.14a R route, which Matt Wilder ascended last October for the movie CORE). We got the gear ready, and decided what I would need. This would be my first “real” trad crack climb. The route started with a cracky climb up a small ledge where fist jams were mandatory. From here there was a upward ledge with little protection. Then you reach the real crack climb. Here I placed a small solid cam and climbed up. Using lie-backs and stems. I got up a high enough and placed another. Asking Ben for help, he supported me and I then got to rest. I then went up higher and tried to place another camera, and lost my grip. I fell about 6-7 feet to the bottom of the ledge. Ben was totally on his game and took in slack as I fell and stopped me from having a complete fall. Only my feet came gently to rest on the rock. Being my first real fall on trad, I was pretty shaken up. I took some time to breathe and compose myself, it might have even helped me by reaffirming that protection can protect.

I climbed again using cams, tricams, and odd remote bolt. I made it to a small ledge, set up anchor and started to calm down. There was now extensive rope drag and every foot I moved I needed to forcefully pull rope to follow me. After calming down I removed the anchor and continued to the top. This was an excruciating rope drag, and I used all my energy to get to the top safely. When I got to the top, Ben was awesome enough to run around and grab a couple pictures of me.

I then went down to the anchor spot and belayed Ben as he climbed up afterwards removing the gear. He got to where I was, and continued to climb past me, so he to could make it to the top. After he got back, we set up shop for the rappel. While doing so we were buzzed by a guider pilot 100ft out. He circled us on the side of the cliff, a couple times taking pictures (I wish i knew who he was, I’d love to see them). Not using the “steel rod”, we sacrificed some webbing and carabiners. We were then safely down on the “ground” (still a sketchy skree field). We bushwhacked our way down the eastside of the ridge, through washouts, rock slides, slabs, broken trees and timber.

We made it back by 5pm, thus completing successfully our 9-5 climbing trip. We reached home base, and decided that we needed to have a beer.  To celebrate our accomplishments, we got 2 “Devil’s Thumb” Stouts from the Walnut Brewery.

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