Meadow River and Summersville Lake: Deep water Solo Weekend


Jeff Dunbar put together a great weekend activity for 30 lucky people. Everyone was ready to have some fun out on the Summersville Lake. Deep water Solo action on the docket.

Alexis and I drove up to Friday night missing some the oncoming rain. We arrived that the Chestnut creek campground just after dark. We met Jeff and the campground host Seth and got all the plans ironed out for the coming days. We rolled into site 43 and setup the tent, and quietly stopped by the campfire to see who all had the arrive and try to get a climbing plan for the following day.

In the morning, we went to Dunkin and were able to get in contact with Caleb who was heading to the southside crags.

Upon arrival we met up with Joe, Kim, Sean, and Kurt. We warmed up on several of the climbs on the left side the Area 51. During one of the climbs, I was cleaning the route for Alexis to follow and my phone peeled out of my pocket. It floated through the air until it made contact with the lower slab and then shattering next to Alexis. The good news was that Alexis did end up making it to the top of the of the route. Everyone then moved on to the main amphitheater and hungout in different lounging positions.

Eventually, I got fired up enough to give “Cage Match” an honest onsight attempt. I got through the 1st bolt and pulled some strenuous lunges till I got established on the big rail. Sidenote: All of the caribeaners where sticking open. I got confused at the big corner and peel off. I pulled right back and found the missing kneebar and got up into the chimney. Animal noises were now start to escape my body. I position my leg above my head and torque my knee until it locked in the chimney then the other leg followed. I was in a double kneebar bat hang. I was able to shake out and tried to figure the chimney escape. Desperate rattling hand jams and foot smears lead me out the roof, until I was able to reach a faraway jug (thanks ape arms). I clawed my way up to a no hand rest and was barely able to control my breathing. I wait here for a while, and then decide to keep pushing to the top. Piecing together jugs, crimp and hand jams. I was able to clip 1 chain and then the next. Then I saw a rattly finger crack, and my desired for a cam echoed loudly out of my mouth. Using what feet I could focus on, and a desperate lock I pulled up and able to hit a large edge. Clip the final draw before the anchor. I was gassed again. I desperately mash my way up the crack until I hit the 2 bolt anchor. My body was beat, but I got through the cage match. It won, but I put in a good fight. I lowered and my body was spent.

The rest of the day I gave “Made in a shade” a burn, but I was still to gassed. I followed Joe up a terrible route in my opinion called game theory. Then we finished the day off at the pebble with Machete Arete and Brownstar.

The event of the evening was that I lost my wallet in Caleb’s car and we almost end up driving back to the southside to look for it. Luckily for the TILE APP were able to meet up with Caleb at the burritio bar and locate the wallet. This was all during some giant hippy jam band festival at the burrito bar.

That night everyone called bedtime early because we had a long day of climbing on the water tomorrow. We were up at 7AM, to get our life organized. Everyone got to the dock at 8:30Am. Loaded up the giant duck, SUP, and coolers and the nina, pinta, and santa maria were off at 9:30AM.

All the boats would be spread out during the day. This would give everyone enough space not to overlap the climbing routes. Our boat’s 1st stop was at long point where we test the water temperature and how we would respond to climbing above water. Our boat roster was, Jeff, Katie, Martin, Hanna, Byron (Jeff’s friend from CA), 2 other non-charlotters, Alexis and I.

The climbing was great and scary at the same time. Each time you start climbing you think to yourself that you are too high, but then you fall and look up and realize you could have go much further.

Climbing the traverse at the pirate cove was allot of fun as the route kept getting harder and hard until you fell. At the Whipperworl wall Jeff got to the high point on Masuko.

At the end of the day all the boats met up at the rat hole. There was a group of kids using the rope swing, so I decided to swim to shore and make friends. Everyone was very understanding and cool and they agreed to let us take a couple laps on the wall and film with the drone. Time was of the essence so I was not dry at all and covered in mud from the crawling on land. I chalked up with what I could and made my way up Rat Race. Plated Jugs and big incuts lead you up and out the wall. Eventually getting steeper and steeper until you got to the last move. You get a “okay” left hand crimp, a “poor” right hand then you have to all out dyno for the jug up and above the anchors. I did not think for second that I had a chance of sticking it, I was just going for it. I threw and brace for the long fall, but my right hand stayed latched. This then require the mandatory 1 arm lockoff first pump as victory. The caveman came out again.

When I go to shore more people had finally arrive on the pedestal. They then fired up the drone and took some action shots of the cliff. During the filming, quickly traversed far out left and monkeyed around on some jugs and crimps. After all this, I was spent and called it a day.

We got back in to the port and loaded up the car and made the way back to Charlotte. No one got hurt, lots of stuff got climbed. It was a great weekend.

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