New River Gorger: Fern and the South side Crags


Last trip before Lasik Surgery, was to do some summer climbing up in the New River Gorge. This trip was complied with Sam and Jeff. We drove up late Friday evening in Sam’s truck. All 3 of us need to get a way for the weekend.

It was an extremely warm and muggy weekend to be out climbing rocks. We went to the Fern Buttress to reclaim some need redpoints. I had a nice swim up “springboard” battling my way up a soggy 30 ft. Jeff did his own swim up a soggy “Triple Treat”. I setup a fixed line and capture Jeff’s redpoint battle up the line. These were 2 terrible warmups.
Next, we made it down to the Ritz Cracker Area. I worked with Jeff as we ran up the Ritz Cracker, and setup a line above “Grand Space”. Sam said this was a great trad line and it proved to be correct. Crux at the bottom and then dancing up the corner to the top.
I took an attempt up the Jug Rash, which turn into quite a battle given not knowing the gear, path, and the humid conditions. After this, I was completely spent. We end up watching Jeff’s friends Lauren and Warren get their turn on Springboard.
That night I got to use the showers at the AAC for the first time. It was highly welcomed.
The next day we went to the Southside Crags. I had never been there, and was exciting to see what it had to offer. The drive in was long and winding, but it saved a lot of walking. The only thing you hope for is to not run into another car on the 1 lane gravel road.
We stopped at an old campsite, and made our way to the brilliant Pebble. We climbing the tradline Machete Arete and Grey Goose. Then we moved down to Area 51 and the roofs there. I was suggested to put up instant gratification. The 1st bolt was missing, so I use alpine draw as a nut and was then able to clip the high 2nd bolt. The route was pretty exciting. Then Sam and I went on go on “Made in the Shade” which proved to be a very fun line out this roof and headwall. Lots of screaming and yelling made it very worth the effort.
We finished out the day by swimming in the stream and drinking some beers. I made have had 1 too many to quickly.

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