New River, West Virginia: Spring 2016


No more prior obligations or events let me start to kick off climbing season again for the year.  I was able to sync up with KC and Sam to catch a ride up to Fayetteville, WV.  I was luckily enough to met and make friend with Caleb, a local who live in the town.  He let me crash on his floor, for which I was very grateful.

Now the climbing, we all head up to Summersville to let Sam, Kurt, and Caleb work on Apollo Reed.  We warmed up on the sweet 10’s wall down near the lake first.   Little did we know that we made KC lead his 1st real outdoor sport route(5.9 ).  After everyone muscles were fired up we setup at the coliseum.   Everyone took burns on Apollo, Sam got brutally close, and I took turns on Reckless Abandon and Tobacco Road (soon to be renamed heroin highway, Barbiturate Boulevard, or meth motorway).   With everyone spent, were rounded out the day with more mileage at the Orange Oswald Wall.  I was happy to get to do the only Trad line here, which ended up being a very pretty corner.  That other memorable point was performing a unnecessary undercling mono-finger lock on a 5.9, which I end up getting my finger stuck.  Some spit and 5 minutes later it wiggled out.  That night we dined on Pies and Pints and slumbered off into the night. Oh Caleb has a pretty sweet cat too.

The next day, after some snow at night and gusty winds, we went over to bubba city.  However this we not before we had some delicious breakfast at vandals, the new eatery in Fayetteville. We climbed at the central Bubba and enjoy nice temps and sun all day.   We found a rarely done 11 to warmup on and then moved on down the cliff line.   We were able to tick and cross off  “Fired for Sandbagging”.  Sam put up “the cutting edge” which turned out to be more fun than it looked like from the ground.  On his 2nd turn he had snagged his 100 unique 5.12.    Bennette was working Diamond life,  and I took a burn on toprope to feel the terrible holds.  KC got his 11 lead with “look who’s pullin”.

It was a good way to start the spring season for climbing

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